Portland chefs share fresh artichoke recipes that showcase their complex flavors (2024)

By JACKIE VARRIANO

Crack open a can and drain. Mix contents with a cup each of mayonnaise and Parmesan cheese. Sprinkle with Tabasco sauce, salt and pepper. Pour into a dish and bake until brown and bubbly. Serve with chips.

Unfortunately, for many years this was the only solution I knew for artichoke hearts. I grew up in the Midwest, where artichokes were more likely to come canned, jarred and pre-marinated than the gorgeous green globes I now know them to be.

Thankfully, Tom Dunklin, executive chef at downtown Portland's

and Joshua McFadden, executive chef and partner at Southeast's

have much richer artichoke histories.

"I actually grew up eating artichokes in New Orleans where we would just steam them and eat with a little bit of vinegar, oil and garlic," Dunklin says.

Recipes included with this story:

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McFadden, who has worked with artichokes in Rome, has even grown his own artichokes on an organic garden in Maine.

"I love them," McFadden says.

But this love and appreciation for, what essentially is the flower buds of an overgrown thistle, is one that is usually cultivated, much like the plant itself.

French immigrants are usually given credit for introducing the artichoke to the United States by way of Louisiana in the late 1800s, but it was the Italians who made them popular in cuisine.

And how could they not? The artichoke's complex flavor sings when placed next to lemon, garlic, parsley, tomatoes or red pepper – all classics in the Italian's cannon. It's wonderful braised, steamed, grilled or sautéed. Rolled in grated Parmesan and breadcrumbs and flash fried? Even better.

However, there is the look of a raw, fresh artichoke in the market – a complete world away from those seemingly cookie-cutter hearts packed in oil.

"It's an intimidating thing," McFadden admits.

"It's tough to clean, it's hard to figure out with a knife, your hands taste bitter after you clean them it's just not an easy vegetable," he finishes.

It's true, those green petals shielding the heart of the choke are spiky and inedible, and just as you break through to the tender, yellow ones toward the center you notice them quickly turning brown if they aren't treated with a bit of lemon juice or acidulated water.

To begin, choose artichokes that are heavy and have tightly packed leaves. Some say the best artichokes squeak when rubbed against each other.

To alleviate the bitterness transferred to your hands and knife while cutting artichokes, McFadden recommends wearing gloves or washing both the knife and your hands before switching to another task.

Tear away the tough, outer leaves and trim the stem, using a peeler to get to the tender center. Cut off the top – and if stuffing, spread the leaves apart to easily scoop out the furry choke. Otherwise, cut in half and slice away with a paring knife.

"Cleaning the artichoke isn't very difficult, especially once you get it. And, it's worth it," McFadden says.

He answers the obvious question of why anyone would want to learn to clean an artichoke with ease.

"The flavor is amazing, and it goes so well with so many different things," McFadden says.

He likes them grilled with a chili-spiked crème fraiche, but also recommends eating the chokes raw.

"They're really good raw when they first come into the season, as most vegetables are. Just clean up the choke and stem, slice and soak in refrigerated ice water and then toss with just lemon, parsley, parmesan and almonds – it's amazing," McFadden promises.

Dunklin likes to keep things simple by just steaming the whole choke before sprinkling it with breadcrumbs, garlic and herbs and baking it in the oven to finish. He also recommends combining the hearts with preserved lemons and blitzing the two in a food processor into a tasty, pesto-like sauce.

"I think it's an underrated ingredient. You can use it raw in a thinly sliced chip or have it for stews, I think it also goes well with shellfish, oysters and licorice flavors," Dunklin says.

He recalls a traditional New Orleans dish that combines oysters with artichoke hearts, cream, spinach and Herbsaint, an anise-flavored liquor.

"I also use the leaves in artichoke bisque," Dunklin says.

Either chef was hard-pressed to come up with a savory item they wouldn't pair with artichokes, Dunklin chuckling briefly before admitting, "I don't know, I'd have to think about that for a while."

"I don't think I'd puree it," says McFadden.

Whatever you do – just try to stay fresh.

-- Jackie Varriano is a Portland freelance writer.